Saturday, June 18, 2011

A Twinge of Fear

It began with a tiny twinge in my right knee.  But I wasn’t going to let a little pain stop me.  I ignored it.  Every day I walk for an hour so I grabbed my headphones and headed to the Malecon but after walking for only ten minutes, my knee began to throb in tune with Tina Turner’s Simply the Best.  I turned up the volume and my pace.  But the pain followed suit and it won.



I lowered myself onto a bench, pulled off my earphones and watched the parade of people.   From bounding gazelles to lumbering hippos; you see it on the Malecon. Then, I noticed a young man in the sports-wheelchair wearing racing gloves and a big smile, a tiny old woman in a flowered polyester dress supported by two tall, young men who chatted over her head, and a man whose paralyzed left side refused to cooperate with his agile right half.  For the first time, I noticed the people who had difficulty walking.



At home I swallowed an 800 mg Motrin, rested, and the next day I laced my tennis shoes and left the house without Tina’s insistent beat. Although I walked more slowly, I couldn’t ignore the pain.  I sat and watched the waves.  They say that fear comes in waves and I was scared. Would I end up like the man in the wheelchair, the old shuffling woman, or the stroke victim who had to drag half his body around?  



I made an appointment with a physical therapist.



In the waiting room Fear whispered, “Knee replacement surgery.”  Then he said, “Complete bed rest.”  Finally, and worst of all, “Sorry, there’s nothing we can do to cure old age.”  On television a hysterical woman, who could have been my alter-ego, wept tele-novela tears. 



The clinic’s entrance door swung open.  Two attractive women practically carried their mother into the room.  Alex quickly offered his seat and the sisters slowly lowered their twig-legged mother.  A tiny groan escaped her lips.  I looked away. 



Within five minutes the youngest told me that she was newly married and had lived in Houston for two years.  But when she heard of her mother’s physical difficulties, she asked her employer for a leave of absence, and she returned to La Paz.  “Naturally, my husband understands that I must take care of my mother”, she said.  She had no idea when she’d be returning to her husband.



Her older sister lifts weights so she’ll be able to attend to her mother’s needs.  These women chatted easily and laughed frequently.  They included Mama in the conversation. And they constantly caressed her.



As we talked, the cleaning woman came in with her mop.  She immediately went to the older woman, leaned down, patted the old woman’s flabby arm and asked, “como esta ud. hoy?”  The old woman smiled and said, “Mejor, gracias mija “. 



Later the physical therapist entered, put her arm around the old woman and whispered into her mushroom-colored ear.  The therapist nodded and the daughters helped their mother into the therapy room.



I sat surrounded by crutches, wheelchairs and walkers.  What was I doing there?  As if ashamed, my knee hadn’t twitched the entire time.  I got up and said, “Alex, let’s go.”  But, at that moment the nurse called my name. 



The doctor prodded, bent and twisted my leg until I winced. 



He said, “No problem.  After five rehab sessions you should be pain-free and able to return to your normal walking schedule.” 



No surgery, no crutches, and no mention of old bones. I’d been given a reprieve.  And a gift – the opportunity to observe people who cared, listened, and weren’t afraid to touch old wrinkled bodies.



Maybe someday when I’m old, I’ll be lucky.  Perhaps there will be people who will treat me with kindness regardless of my flaccid skin or brittle bones. But, until then, I’m going to try to be brave.  Courageous enough to visit and assist aged acquaintances. 

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

California, Here We come

It’s a daily ritual.  While I wait for coffee to brew, I check my calendar and slash through the box that was yesterday.  Now, there are only a few dates remaining until we reach the square where I’ve written, “Leave for El Norte”.



I wrote those words months ago without any particular emotion.  But this morning, when I realized how fast the date was approaching, dread came and sat squarely on my shoulders.  It will be hard to leave La Paz.



There are a dozen things we need to do:  Pre-pay utility bills.  Arrange to have our plants watered and the sidewalk swept.  Take down paintings and mirrors to protect them from condensation caused by heavy rain.  Empty the fountain.  Ask friends to drive us to the airport.  So many details.  But none are the cause of my distress.



I’m anxious because there are so many things I’ll miss and want to do before we leave La Paz.   

·        I’ll miss fish tacos and arrachera at Rancho Viejo.

·        And being part of the Sunday evening Malecon Mixmaster composed of bikers, skateboarders, rollerbladers, strollers and out-of-control battery powered cars driven by two-year-olds.  

·        I want to watch the sun light up the bay early on a Sunday morning when the Malecon is free of traffic.

·        I want to play Rummiqub with Ginger and Mercedes.  And just once, I’d like to win.

·        I’d like to finish and return the novel Caramelo. 

·        I’ll miss suggestions from the Sea of Cortez Writers’ group.  And their patience.

·        I’d love to write a perfect first draft. 

·        Lose four pounds so I can fit into my swimsuit. 

·        Master the subjunctive tense in Spanish.

·        Learn to paint like Ulla.



Okay, maybe the last four are a bit unrealistic but emotions and realism rarely co-exist.



The reality is that Alex and I have been lucky.  We take care of large beautiful homes in the States but, nevertheless; I’ll miss our small house with its plant-filled patios.  I’ll miss dark-eyed Mexican children but will settle for blond, blue- eyed substitutes. I’ll miss the roosters but not the barking dogs.  The music but not the all-night parties.  The 85-degree water temperature but not the humid 105-degree afternoons.  I’ll crave fish tacos but will savor Thai and Indian food.



There are things I am looking forward to.  Libraries.  Foreign films with English subtitles.  Trader Joes.  And, on Sunday mornings, Alex will buy three fat newspapers – in English, and then he’ll drive to a donut shop and bring home an old-fashioned donut for me and a huge apple fritter for himself.  We’ll sit on the balcony, read to each other, drink coffee, and eat donuts.  I know that even if I manage to drop four pounds before we leave La Paz, I’ll gain them back in El Norte.



But at least I won’t be friendless because some of our La Paz pals have homes in California and Oregon.  We’ll visit.  And create memories.  And I’ll look for odd or amusing experiences to write about for the Baja Citizen; it will help connect me to La Paz.
And, each morning while we’re in the States, as I wait for coffee to brew, I’ll mark a slash through the day that was yesterday.  And one day, there will be just a few dates unmarked until we reach the square where I’ve written, “Return to La Paz”.  And I’ll recognize the tickle in my tummy means that soon I’ll be coming home.