La Marmolera is a treasure that La Paz is quickly discovering.
I‘ve been away from Mexico for eight months and La Marmolera was the first restaurant friends took me to when I arrived in La Paz. I’ve returned three times. Today I brought my friend, Ana Hall, with me. Ana’s parents are Mexican and she was raised around good Mexican food.
La Marmolera is located on Cuahtemoc between Serdan and G. Prieto. Here are easy directions: Take 5 de February (driving away from the bay). Turn right immediately after the huge church Santuario de Guadalupe. Turn left at the next corner (Cuauhtemoc). La Marmolera is on the right side of the street. Notice the large antique metal sign on the front.
As if announcing our arrival, the church bells rang as we entered through the large metal gate. We immediately felt like we’d walked into a lovely oasis. Lush foliage, large umbrellas, and a beautiful pond create an outdoor eating space appropriate for any season. Soft music harmonized with the sound of gently cascading water. Tables are placed so intimate conversation is possible and other diners appeared happy and relaxed.
Blanca, the owner, greeted us with a warm smile and led us to an immaculate glass table. We hung our purses on a “purse tree” and Ana ordered tea and that’s when the fun started. Her eyes grew huge as Selina, our server, brought a Chinese style black tea pot and an ornate glass (similar to those used in The Middle East). Ana could barely wait the four minutes for the tea to seep. She sipped and smiled.
Meanwhile I used the well-equipped clean bathroom and was surprised and embarrassed when I noticed that I’d used the men’s room. Oops.
We sampled nine dishes and they all had these qualities in common:
Servings were very generous and dishes were attractively presented. None of the food appeared greasy. Mushrooms were fresh and had an earthy flavor. (Their flavor came through the sauces and crema). Only breast meat was used in the chicken dishes. Chicken looked and tasted fresh without a hint of fat, skin, or gristle. The salads appeared fresh and crisp. Most recipes originate in Mainland Mexico.
Machaca del Rancho (home-made dried, shredded beef) is fluffy and not greasy.
Huaraches are the size of a young woman’s sandals and piled high with chicken, mushroom or nopal and generous enough for two people to share.
Chilaquiles Bandera with chicken were crispy. The red sauce had a deep and complex flavor and the green sauce placed a pleasant pucker on my lips.
If I had to choose three favorites, I’d pick the Enmoladas (corn tortillas folded over shredded chicken and bathed with home-made aromatic mole, the Gorditas de Chilorio (a Sinoloa style sausage that’s full of flavor and just the perfect amount of spice), and Bacoles de Requeson (fried dough balls stuffed with requeson cheese). This dish was delicate and stuffed with a ricotta-style cheese.
Blanca told us that the Ahogados (two poached eggs served in a bowl of tomato sauce) is a favorite with Mexican diners but neither Ana nor I are egg aficionados. The thin tomato sauce tasted fresh and when we poked the eggs they weren’t too loose or overcooked.
The wait staff: Selena, Denis and Yessica are observant and attentive. The chef, Neftali, and his team are eager to please and willing to adapt for special diets, if possible.
Blanca knew she wanted to own a restaurant when she was in high school, and when she and her husband left Guadalajara and moved to La Paz in 1990, her dream started to take form. La Marmolera (named in honor of the marble workshop that existed on the site) opened five years ago and has slowly evolved until today it is an inviting garden protected from the elements where people can relax and enjoy a meal, a glass of tea, or a cup of coffee (La Choya beans are freshly ground for each cup). Both coffee and tea are served with complimentary home-made coffee cake.
Blanca hopes to enlarge the kitchen in order to offer more dessert options. Until that happens, order tea or coffee then save a bite of Blanca’s home-made cake (if you have that much self-control) and you’ll have a perfect sweet finish to your meal.
Breakfast is served Monday through Saturday from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Mid-day meal served from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. $70 pesos includes soup, salad, a pitcher of fruit water and a choice of either meat, chicken, fish or vegetable- based dish.
Sunday 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
Prices are under $100 pesos (Visa and M/C accepted) and considering the fresh home-made ingredients and quantity of the food (they put Mexican traditional dishes through the American Super- Size machine), you will become a repeat a customer.
This family-based restaurant has grown and become popular with Mexicans and Extranjeros alike who appreciate a liquor-free, non-smoking environment. Each time I’ve gone, Mexicans outnumber foreigners ten to one but after this review, that ratio is likely to change.
While Ana and I were eating, Susan and Dennis arrived. They often choose La Marmolera because they like the flavor, the quality, and, since they are business owners with busy schedules, they appreciate the efficiency and service.
In addition to the food, the service and the atmosphere, I was also surprised with a couple of things that most people might not notice. The silverware is heavy and sturdy – I like that. The coffee can be made to order (I prefer a double shot of coffee, a tiny bit of milk and lots of foam), and they offer freshly made decaf coffee, also.
When you visit La Marmolera, relax and get ready to enjoy a typical Mexican meal and please take a look in the pond. I hope you’ll smile like I did.
La Marmolera Fonda & Café
Cuauhtemoc between Serdan and G. Prieto, La Paz
Reservations accepted 128-6337
1 comment:
Thank you for taking me with you, it was truly a delicious experience.
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